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Rodent Proofing For Fall
It’s fall and cooler termperatures are settling in. That means mice and rats are heading indoors. As rodents look for winter harborage, human dwellings and buildings start to feel the pressure of encroaching rodents.
Agile and adaptable, rodents enter buildings any way that they can. They squeeze through spaces as big as their heads: mice need only 1/4'', young rats, 1/2''. Anywhere a pencil fits through, a mouse can too.
RODENT ENTRANCEWAYS Rodents can enter dwellings in multiple ways. They arrive via ventilation grills, sidewalk gratings and large sidewalk cracks. They gnaw through wooden doors and crawl into spaces where pipes meet wood siding. They scale vertical wires, pipes and tree limbs. Rats burrow under foundations of building lacking basements. Rodents also get into hollow walls between floors and floor sills. They can also hide in pallets and rush in through open doors. They easily come inside through defective drain pipes, travelling inside the pipe or burrowing alongside it.
EXCLUSION MATERIALS A series of material will help you keep rodents out of buildings: 1) Galvanized, stainless or other non-rusting metals: a) sheet metal, 24 gauge or higher; b) expanded metal, 28 gauge or higher; c) perforated metal, 24 gauge or higher; and d) hardware cloth, 19 gauge or higher with 1/4'' or less mesh. 2) Cement mortar: 1 part cement, 3 parts sand mix or richer. 3) Concrete: 1 part cement, 2 parts gravel, 4 parts sand mix or richer. Adding broken glass to mortar or cement will deter rodents from burrowing through it as it dries.
EXAMPLES OF RODENT PROOFING Creative use of materials combined with knowledge of rodent behavior will help you exclude rodents from buildings. Here are a few ways to use the materials for rodent proofing. Patch holes around plumbing with concrete or mortar. Cover a drain, vent or chimney with 1/4'' hardware cloth. Along the bottom of a door, use sheet metal flashing. Place a metal, circular rat guard on a drain to prevent rats from wedging themselves between the building and the pipe to crawl upwards.
RODENT RE-ENTRANCE Keep an eye out for new holes and tunnels into buildings a week or two after the building has been sealed up. Efforts by rats and mice to return to old feeding grounds will be strongest then.
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Rat Management
MANAGING A RAT PROBLEM Three elements are necessary for a successful rat management program: sanitation measures, building construction and rodent proofing, and, if necessary, population control.
Sanitation Sanitation is fundamental to rat control and must be continuous. If sanitation measures are not properly maintained, the benefits of other measures will be lost, and rats will quickly return. Good housekeeping in and around buildings will reduce available shelter and food sources for Norway and, to some extent, roof rats. Neat, off-the-ground storage of pipes, lumber, firewood, crates, boxes, gardening equipment, and other household goods will help reduce the suitability of the area for rats and will also make their detection easier. Garbage, trash, and garden debris should be collected frequently, and all garbage receptacles should have tight-fitting covers. Where dogs are kept and fed outdoors, rats may become a problem if there is a ready supply of dog food. Feed your pet only the amount of food it will eat at a feeding, and store pet food in rodent-proof containers.
For roof rats in particular, thinning dense vegetation will make the habitat less desirable. Climbing hedges such as Algerian or English ivy, star jasmine, and honeysuckle on fences or buildings are very conducive to roof rat infestations and should be thinned or removed if possible, as should overhanging tree limbs within 3 feet of the roof. Separate the canopy of densely growing plants such as pyracantha and juniper from each other and from buildings by a distance of 2 feet or more to make it more difficult for rats to move between them.
Building Construction and Rodent Proofing The most successful and long lasting form of rat control in buildings is to "build them out." Seal cracks and openings in building foundations, and any openings for water pipes, electric wires, sewer pipes, drain spouts, and vents. No hole larger than 1/4 inch should be left unsealed to exclude both rats and house mice. Make sure doors, windows, and screens fit tightly. Their edges can be covered with sheet metal if gnawing is a problem. Coarse steel wool, wire screen, and lightweight sheet metal are excellent materials for plugging gaps and holes. Plastic sheeting, wood, caulking, and other less sturdy materials are likely to be gnawed away.
Because rats (and house mice) are excellent climbers, openings above ground level must also be plugged. Rodent proofing against roof rats usually requires more time to find entry points than for Norway rats because of their greater climbing ability. Roof rats often enter buildings at the roof line area so be sure that all access points in the roof are sealed. If roof rats are travelling on overhead utility wires, contact a pest control professional or the utility company for information and assistance with measures that can be taken to prevent this.
Rodent Proofing Your Home *Repair or replace damaged ventilation screen around the foundation and under eaves. *Provide a tight fitting cover for the crawl space. *Seal all openings around pipes, cables, and wires that enter through walls or the foundation. *Be sure all windows that can be opened are screened and that the screens are in good condition. *Cover all chimneys with a spark arrester. *Make sure internal screens on roof and attic air vents are in good repair. *Cover rooftop plumbing vent pipes in excess of 2 inches in diameter with screens over their tops. *Make sure all exterior doors are tight fitting and weatherproofed at the bottom. *Seal gaps beneath garage doors with a gasket or weatherstripping. *Install self-closing exits or screening to clothes dryer vents to the outside. *Remember that pet doors into the house or garage provide an easy entrance for rodents. *Keep side doors to the garage closed, especially at night.
Population Control When food, water, and shelter are available, rat populations can reproduce and grow quickly. While the most permanent form of control is to limit food, water, shelter, and access to buildings, direct population control is often necessary.
For controlling rats indoors, use traps. Baiting is best done outdoors only, otherwise rats may die behind a wall. In hot weather, the stench of a dead rat can be unbearable and may necessitate cutting a hole in the wall to remove the carcass. Also, ectoparasites such as fleas and mites often leave dead rat carcasses and may infest the entire house if the carcass is not removed promptly.
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT ELIMINEX NEW JERSEY TERMITE AND PEST Methods of Rodent Control Click this Link http://www.eliminexguarantees.com/eliminexsite_005.htm
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ELIMINEX NEW JERSEY TERMITE AND PEST CONTROL ‘A FEW RAT AND MICE CONTROL AND INSPECTION ARTICLES’ |
